It is estimated that humans absorb (ingest) up to 60% of what we put on our skin – we literally are what we eat! The Environmental Working Group (a consumer watchdog agency) notes that on average, adults apply 126 unique ingredients on their skin daily and nearly 90% of personal care product ingredients have not been evaluated for safety by any publicly accountable institution.
1. SODIUM LAURYL/LAURETH SULFATE. One of the first ingredients to make ‘no-no’ news, this chemical is used in the auto industry as an engine degreaser. Derived from petroleum (more on that below), and frequently disguised in pseudo-natural cosmetics with the phrase “comes from Coconuts”, it can cause eye and skin irritation, skin flaking similar to dandruff and other allergic reactions. In cosmetics, it’s used to make big bubbles – shampoo, soaps, toothpaste, bubble bath, hand soaps and body washes are the typical forms. And it can combine with other ingredients in packaging to form nitrosamines, which is released into the products (translation: formaldehyde!). Eeew.
Our favorite alternative to this nasty are glucosides; naturally-derived surfectants from sugar. They are safe and highly-effective – and while the bubbles are way smaller, they are super effective at removing surface oils without leaving behind residue.
2. PROPYLENE GLYCOL – The main ingredient in anti-freeze, since it creates a slippery feeling – hence its use in cosmetics to give a velvety, hydrated feeling to the skin. Often listed as PEG (polyethylene glycol) or PPG (polypropylene glycol). It is a known neurotoxin (gasp!) and can cause contact dermatitis, skin rashes, drying skin. It also penetrates below the surface, so it can deliver other 'nasties' deeper into the skin and into the bloodstream.
Since we all want super velvety soft, hydrated skin, we look to natural oils to bring moisture and protect. Vegetable glycerin, jojoba oil, and nut oils like coconut and hazelnut are superb bases for the good lube.
3. ARTIFICIAL COLORS AND FRAGRANCES. Also listed as FD&C colors/fragrances. Coal tar by-products, sold on the cheap to manufacturers to mimic naturally occurring colors and scents. Have been known to cause contact dermatitis, allergic reactions, asthma, and even cancer in young children – totally not good in our books? That hot new fragrance could very well make your man sweat, all right – with an allergic reaction.
Alternative? Pure essential oils derived from plants and flowers, vegetable/fruit pigments and earth minerals make the best fragrances and colors – vibrant, headily sensual, and totally non-toxic. Bonus: natural fragrances have the added aroma therapeutic benefit of being mood altering (hello, love potions!) and mineral pigments can offer natural SPF protection.
4. STERALKONIUM CHLORIDE. Used as a fabric softener in the clothing industry, and found in hair care products like conditioners to impart a soft feeling. Long-term usage can make hair extremely dull, dry and life-less – totally the opposite of what it’s used for in the short term! Not to mention conditions like dandruff and contact dermatitis. Again, not sexy.
Natural softeners and defrizzers like avocado and Shea butter add immense moisture, and shine without weighing hair down. Hair is unbelievably bouncy – don’t we all want that?
5. PHTHALATES. Used to soften plastics and create fragrances. These difficult to pronounce chemicals are toxic and regulated under environmental law. They interfere with the male reproductive organs by blocking androgens – male hormones – and are known to damage sperm, reduce fertility, and are especially dangerous to developing fetuses. Pregnant women should avoid dibutyl phthalate in nail polish. Phthalates are frequently components of fragrance, which often contain dozens of chemicals – the entire mixture simply appears as ‘fragrance” on the ingredient list. So reading labels cannot assure there are no phthalates in a product. Often listed as: Fragrance, Dibutyl Phthalate(s), Diethyl Phthalate, 1,2-Benzenedicaroxylic Acid, Dibutyl Ester, Dibutyl 1,2-Benzenedicarboxylate, Dibutyl Ester 1,2-Benzenedicaroxylic Acid, DBP, and Di-N-Butylphthalate. Phthalates have been banned across Europe, and some large American manufacturers have recently removed the chemical from their nail polishes.
When it comes to fragrances, we know we love the essentials: the oils and infusions provided by Mother Nature herself – using pure, unadulterated scents created with only natural oils guarantee us a phthalate-free product. And, while it’s not possible to create a completely chemical-free nail polish, we love a good brand that uses water-based technology instead of plastics. The polish doesn’t last as long, but then it gives us yet another excuse to go get manicured!
6. PETROLEUM BY-PRODUCTS. Also known as petroleum jelly, petrolatum, liquid paraffin, mineral oil. It’s another super cheap by-product of an industry – this time oil – used in cosmetics because it gives a feeling of moisture. The truth is that petroleum by-products can interfere with the body’s own natural moisturizing mechanism, creating dry skin and chapping – which of course makes the consumer want to use more product!!! More product, more dryness…what a vicious circle.
Natural waxes like beeswax combine with soothing oils like sweet almond oil and can create a ‘jelly’ similar to petroleum. Also, the combination can blend to create amazingly nourishing lotions and butters. The difference from its chemical counterpart? Truly smoothed, healed skin. We mentioned we’re really well-manicured, right? Right.
7. HYDROQUINONE SKIN LIGHTENER. A skin bleaching chemical that can cause mercury poisoning, adrenal glad problems and ochronosis – a disfiguring and irreversible skin disease. Also listed as: 1,4-Benzenediol, 1,4-Dihydroxylbenzene, P-Dioxybenzene, 4-Hyroxyphenol, and P-Hydroxyphenol. It can be found in some skin lighteners. Also, potentially dangerous to the liver. Hmmm…sounds like it makes a serious mountain out of a little brown spot to us!
Vitamins A and C, Kojic-acid from rice wine production, and Termeric are all potent scar and age-spot lighteners. We also love rose hip seed oil for its ability to assist in skin cell turnover. They may take a little longer to work, but they are incredibly effective AND gentle. Just make sure the Termeric is a color-less form (otherwise you’ll be orange)!
8. PARABENS AND FORMALDEHYDE. A widely used preservative in cosmetics, used to inhibit bacteria growth in a product. They can be found in the form of methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben, benzylparaben and their sodium salts. They are potential allergens, creating skin irritations and contact dermatitis, and are considered to be hormone-disrupting and estrogenic (they were linked in a small study to breast cancer, fueling the consumer demand for removal in person care). Parabens can be found in almost any product containing water/oil – and I’ve seen products list ingredients with more than one (sometimes 5!) forms of parabens.
FORMALDEHYDE. Used as another preservative in personal care products. It’s a known human carcinogen, immune system toxicant, and respiratory toxicant and can cause surface skin irritations. Also known as Formaldehyde Solution (Formalin), Formic Aldehyde, Merthaldehyde, Methanal, Methyl Aldehyde, Oxomethane, Oxymethylene; the preservatives Diazolidinyl Urea and Imadazolidinyl Urea also release formaldehyde and are listed in the ingredients as Germall II and Germall 115. Formaldehyde can be found in facial moisturizers and cleansers, shampoo, conditioner, body wash, styling gel, sunscreens, foundations and many other products.
Phenoxyethanol is a commonly used natural alternative, derived from rose. Powerhouse anti-oxidants like C and E can offer preservative effects, as well as grapefruit see extract, rosemary extract and essential oils. They increase shelf life of a product – a moisturizer might last up to one year, instead of 1 and ½ like its conventional counterpart.
9. TALC (TALCUM POWDER) – is a cosmetics grade powder that is identical to asbestos – a totally carcinogenic chemical. Used to absorb moisture and applied to the underarms and genital areas, this ingredient clogs pores and causes skin irritation. It has also been linked to vaginal and ovarian cancers, possibly due to its use on genitalia as well as respiratory problems.
No one likes to be a Sweaty Sarah, so we look for products containing finely milled cornstarch. It’s silky, super absorbent and completely non-toxic! And, of course, safe for babies.
10. ANIMAL PRODUCTS – While we don’t mind a lovely soak in a milk bath, we really don’t advocate sudsing with animal fat – i.e. Tallow. Sodium tallowate is animal fat used to bond to oils (like attracts like) and therefore help to cleanse the skin; placenta is used in some cosmetics to impart youthful looking skin and hair. Animal products introduce extra hormones into the human body and also come with a loaded ethical question. And we say, again, eeew!
When it comes to the suds, saponified vegetable oils like olive provide superior bubbles and a gentle, nourishing cleaning. And eating clean, healthy diets, drinking plenty of fresh water and using naturally-derived products that don’t interfere with the body’s hormones are the keys to feeling and looking younger, longer! Not to mention living with a light conscience…
Alicia Read is director of brands/pure beauty